Ancient and modern, with equal measures of grunge and grace, bustling Athens is a heady mix of history and edginess. Iconic monuments mingle with first-rate museums, lively cafes and al fresco dining – and it’s downright fun. The historic centre is an open-air museum, yet the city’s cultural and social life takes place amid these ancient landmarks, merging past and present. The magnificent Acropolis rises above the sprawling metropolis and has stood witness to the city’s many transformations.
Post-Olympics Athens, even in the face of current financial issues, is conspicuously more sophisticated and cosmopolitan than ever before. Stylish restaurants, shops and hip hotels, and artsy-industrial neighbourhoods and entertainment quarters such as Gazi, show Athens’ modern face. The surrounding region of Attiki holds some spectacular antiquities as well – such as the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion – and lovely beaches, like those near historic Marathon.
On the southern edge of the Greek capital lies the alluring Apollo Coast, also known as the Athenian Riviera. Still defined as greater Athens, its palm tree–lined esplanades and idyllic beaches dominate a unique slice of Mediterranean coastline – urban shore brimming with laid-back elegance, a history of jet-set glamour and the feeling of spending quality time on a Greek island.
Post-Olympics Athens, even in the face of current financial issues, is conspicuously more sophisticated and cosmopolitan than ever before. Stylish restaurants, shops and hip hotels, and artsy-industrial neighbourhoods and entertainment quarters such as Gazi, show Athens’ modern face. The surrounding region of Attiki holds some spectacular antiquities as well – such as the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion – and lovely beaches, like those near historic Marathon.
On the southern edge of the Greek capital lies the alluring Apollo Coast, also known as the Athenian Riviera. Still defined as greater Athens, its palm tree–lined esplanades and idyllic beaches dominate a unique slice of Mediterranean coastline – urban shore brimming with laid-back elegance, a history of jet-set glamour and the feeling of spending quality time on a Greek island.
The Acropolis is the most important ancient site in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from almost everywhere within the city. Its monuments and sanctuaries of Pentelic marble gleam white in the midday sun and gradually take on a honey hue as the sun sinks, while at night they stand brilliantly illuminated above the city. A glimpse of this magnificent sight cannot fail to exalt your spirit.
The Acropolis was first inhabited in Neolithic times (4000–3000 BC). The first temples were built during the Mycenaean era, in homage to the goddess Athena. People lived on the Acropolis until the late 6th century BC, but in 510 BC the Delphic oracle declared that it should be the province of the gods. After all the buildings on the Acropolis were reduced to ashes by the Persians on the eve of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding program. He transformed the Acropolis into a city of temples, which has come to be regarded as the zenith of classical Greek achievement.
Ravages inflicted during the years of foreign occupation, pilfering by foreign archaeologists, inept renovations following Independence, visitors’ footsteps, earthquakes and, more recently, acid rain and pollution have all taken their toll on the surviving monuments. The worst blow was in 1687, when the Venetians attacked the Turks, opening fire on the Acropolis and causing an explosion in the Parthenon – where the Turks had been storing gunpowder – and damaging all the buildings.
Major restoration programs are continuing and many of the original sculptures have been moved to the Acropolis Museum and replaced with casts. The Acropolis became a World Heritage–listed site in 1987.
The Acropolis was first inhabited in Neolithic times (4000–3000 BC). The first temples were built during the Mycenaean era, in homage to the goddess Athena. People lived on the Acropolis until the late 6th century BC, but in 510 BC the Delphic oracle declared that it should be the province of the gods. After all the buildings on the Acropolis were reduced to ashes by the Persians on the eve of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding program. He transformed the Acropolis into a city of temples, which has come to be regarded as the zenith of classical Greek achievement.
Ravages inflicted during the years of foreign occupation, pilfering by foreign archaeologists, inept renovations following Independence, visitors’ footsteps, earthquakes and, more recently, acid rain and pollution have all taken their toll on the surviving monuments. The worst blow was in 1687, when the Venetians attacked the Turks, opening fire on the Acropolis and causing an explosion in the Parthenon – where the Turks had been storing gunpowder – and damaging all the buildings.
Major restoration programs are continuing and many of the original sculptures have been moved to the Acropolis Museum and replaced with casts. The Acropolis became a World Heritage–listed site in 1987.
If you start at the top of Syntagma Square and walk down the steps and past the fountain, at the bottom of the square is the beginning of Ermou Street, a paradise for those who live to shop. From the Parliament building you can make a straight line that follows Ermou all the way to The Gazi, the old gas works of Athens, now the center of its nightlife. Ermou street is a commercial avenue which has been turned into a pedestrian only street (besides the occasional motorcycle or taxi coming from the Hotel Electra or Athens Cypria). It is the primary clothing shopping street for Athens and contains many of the big international names like Benneton, Marks & Spencer, H&M, Zara, Berksha, Sepura, and a bunch of other stores that you have probably heard of but mean nothing to me. The Greek department store, Fokas, is near the top of Ermou in a beautiful old neo-classic building that looks like it would be more suitable housing a museum and is worth a visit, even if you are not buying anything, so you can see what a Greek department store is like. The Hondos Center is also of interest, especially for women, since you may not have experienced anything like it before. It is a giant cosmetic store with other items of interest to women, sort of a department store crossed with a Walgreens. It even has a cafe.
Whether you’re in the mood to hit the beaches and nightclubs, or to explore historic sights and set sail to nearby islands, the Athenian Riviera offers plenty of attractions. Both public and private beaches line the Riviera’s 48km stretch of coastline, many of which have met the stringent quality standards to earn Blue Flag accreditation. The privately operated, stylish beachside venues feature luxury sunbeds, volleyball courts and gourmet dining options. Astir Beach has one of the highest admission fees on the coast; regulars pre-book their lounge chairs. The well-appointed Balux is the choice for all-day relaxation thanks to the plush beach loungers set on the sand. At the Yabanaki VIP section, guests enjoy special attention at a private lounge complete with cocktail and sushi bar service.
The public, state-run beaches are just as beautiful without admission fees to worry about. Amenities like umbrellas or loungers – if available – cost a few euros. Limanakia is perfect for those seeking to dive off the rocks into the crystal-clear water. Mikro Kavouri is a picturesque rocky beach with a great lookout point to enjoy views of the Saronic Gulf. Thymari beach is a local favourite known for its shallow turquoise sea. It is pretty easy to enter the beach area by taking a tram from the city center. In the very end of the direction towards Glyfada, you can find for instance the intimate Banana Beach.
Athenians head to the Riviera beach town of Anavissos for two things: windsurfing and great seafood. Beaches here are less crowded, the water is extra clean and the scenery beautiful. Anavissos is home to a variety of simple fish taverns with dining areas overlooking the sea. For traditional Greek dining, join the locals at the authentic Ta Pefka
The public, state-run beaches are just as beautiful without admission fees to worry about. Amenities like umbrellas or loungers – if available – cost a few euros. Limanakia is perfect for those seeking to dive off the rocks into the crystal-clear water. Mikro Kavouri is a picturesque rocky beach with a great lookout point to enjoy views of the Saronic Gulf. Thymari beach is a local favourite known for its shallow turquoise sea. It is pretty easy to enter the beach area by taking a tram from the city center. In the very end of the direction towards Glyfada, you can find for instance the intimate Banana Beach.
Athenians head to the Riviera beach town of Anavissos for two things: windsurfing and great seafood. Beaches here are less crowded, the water is extra clean and the scenery beautiful. Anavissos is home to a variety of simple fish taverns with dining areas overlooking the sea. For traditional Greek dining, join the locals at the authentic Ta Pefka
My pictures from Athens
Some recent pictures from Athens (2015 - 2017).